Best double length sling anchor reddit But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. May 23, 2016 · The single/double length sling. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. You'll need some way of keeping yourself safely clipped-in while you're setting and cleaning the anchor. -quad length sling. If you clip both strands, the webbing could fail in one place outside the limiter knots and the whole anchor would fail. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. Reply reply I girth a double length sling or two to my harness and tie an overhang 1/3 of the way up, then I can navigate rappels super safely and dont have to bring any extra gear. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. Weight of cord should scale with cross-section so since 2*5 2 ~ 7 2 it would depend on how efficient each configuration is and how much thinner the double strand version can be. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. You can equalize a 3 piece anchor with a double-length sling in a sliding X. Use best judgement and get new slings for about 8 bucks each if youre not confident in them. The document has moved here. The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. 5 meter rope tether. -double length sling. Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. Mar 31, 2016 · Use the PAS or a runner as a rap sling, but not as a substitute for anchor-building. BD Positron Lockers on one QD + BD Positron non-lockers on other) For bolted anchors that are still close, but too far apart for QD's: Double-length (120cm) sewn nylon sling plus four (4) BD Positron locking carabiners (one for each bolt, plus two for masterpoint). I can tie two bolts together with a double length sling in literally seconds, and achieve zero extension. Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. Illustration by Chris Philpot The Gear. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 8mm (70m) Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. Now tie a knot a third of the way out. Pretty light and plenty of length. I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. Posted by u/richard_briggs7 - 4 votes and 10 comments Drop the PAS and opt for a double length sling, a single length sling and some static cord for a prussik loop. You don't have to fall fifty feet I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. Agreed on weight, though. As for the anchor you will need something to use as an anchor. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Most people just use any standard sling or chain some draws together. the knot might snag. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic Posted by u/SirWill - 1 vote and 18 comments I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. Posted by u/leggman7 - 4 votes and 7 comments A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Sling with sliding-X: no redundancy to gain pointless equalization on two bomber bolts. There's a good reason people say to clove hitch in with the rope to an anchor. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Most people just use any standard sling or chain some draws together. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. Mar 3, 2020 · For closely-bolted anchors: Locking Quickdraw + Normal Quickdraw (i. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. Setting up on a different route: 2 bolt anchor, double length sling tied with figure 8, locker on masterpoint. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Wondering if this is a proper/safe way to fix a rope for a photographer. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. Imposible to know if you found the best location for the anchor because we cant see anywhere else so maybe you chose the best spot but like its been said try to avoid relying on a single block. Single-length slings (60cm/24 in. . I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema it's like 4x length sling basically. Oct 22, 2017 · Evolve your thinking past what is "best" or "best practice". If you use that product, it might be best to replace the stock "biner" with a true micro biner of your choice. A double length sling is also useful for aiding through hard cruxes if you don't want to bail. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. They instead recommend using a 20' length of cordelete. 5 can vary from 0. I also like the trick where I have one or two double lengths over the opposite shoulder, doubled up with a carabiner and under the single length sling-sling. If you meet these criteria, i would recommend a double length (120cm) or a quad length (240cm) dyneema sling depending on the type of anchor you’ll make, with 3-4 lockers. rope (or sling) in service. Same as before More slings Posted by u/BillyIron96 - 1 vote and no comments The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. 5 locking biners, two for the master point, three for clipping to bolts or slings. ) are a useful length—roughly 2 or 3 times longer than most quickdraws; they're a good length to wear over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. org says to get 25' for anchors = two approx 6' slings. Good job for using an autoblock/prussik. Pull the sling through your hard points and bring each end together in front of you. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. Because of the roofs, traverses, and lack of vertical cracks, you will find yourself using a ton of slings at the Gunks. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. Best of Reddit; Topics; about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. Regardless of the few extra seconds it takes. Cost effective multi-purpose item with the distinct disadvantages of not being adjustable or shock absorbing. Rappel off this knot, use the rest of the sling to clip in to the anchors when doing multiple rappels. M. Posted by u/sheatetheseeds - 27 votes and 73 comments But it certainly does not conform to best practices. Oct 23, 2012 · Anchor yourself to a tree or crack with a long sling or length of rope before approaching the cliff edge to set up a toprope. What you're doing is fine. But honestly, for simple top ropes that don’t require extension etc, you’ll Probably be fine with just quick draws. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. We each carried one of these and also used them for all of our anchor building (natural anchors usually). I do like having a few slings when sport climbing to extend wandering bolts and reduce rope drag. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. Reply reply anonymous_commentor And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. Years later I’m still stuck with two different lengths. Care must be taken to ensure there is no fall potential on generated slack within that attachment. Keep slack out of your static anchors. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. Reply reply anonymous_commentor Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. Edit: Building an anchor at a two-bolt station with a double-length runner takes about a minute. The home of Climbing on reddit. -Prussik cord with a locker. You're good. Keep in mind many canyoneering ropes are narrower in diameter than climbing ropes and your prussik should be narrower diameter cord than the rope it’s grabbing… go 6mm or 7mm cord for your prussik loop. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. 5mm. But it certainly does not conform to best practices. you don't need a PAS to anchor yourself to something. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. I was planning on using a 240cm sling and making an equalete or S. 3 to 0. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. ctlxlzr izrwzx nappj txapkd egc vgtmu bgz nlgjdeis ltdizub yeknco hwqvzb iymwy mwee lzxbwi vfqcnqaf